Thursday, 3 February 2011

The Essence of it all

 

This is a bottle of the famous Ezsencia from Tokaji, the King of Wines and Wine of Kings. From the mid 18th to the early 19th century, three sweet wines were the rage amongst the royalty and aristocracy of Europe - Chateau d'Yquem from Sauternes, Constantia from South Africa and Ezsencia from Tokaj in Hungary. Unlike the former two which are specific wines, there are many makers of Ezsencia, it being the fermented free-run juice from the botrytised grapes used for making Tokaji Aszu wines.
As you can imagine from the description above, such juice is very scarce. It is also very high in sugar, making it very difficult to ferment. The final alcoholic strength is only a few percent. When there was a change in the law to require Ezsencia to have a minimum alcohol of around 5%, the vignerons were up in arms because this is often not achieved. As for low alcohol strength, there is even one which has no alcohol, but that is for another entry. Another problem is that it is also not so easy to stabilize so that it does not start fermenting again without resort to sterile filtration or some sort of chemical inhibitor.
Oremus is a winery, but it is also a grape (now renamed Zeta) as well as a first class vineyard in Tokaj. (It is also "Let us pray" in Latin; I wonder how many prayers were needed for producing this wonder wine!)

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