The Shanghai Hairy Crab season is here, and a group of friends got together with us over the weekend to have a tiny feast on the seasonal delicacy. Traditionally various types of Chinese "yellow wine" (not vin jaune from the Jura, but Chinese rice wine) are drunk with these crabs, but I had got a bottle of Chablis for some seafood we were going to have for the meal, nothing special, just village level Chablis.
Well the restaurant got a little bit muddled over the dishes, with the result that I had needed to open nearly all the bottles whilst we were finishing off the crabs (which we were having first). Although the rice wine was nice and traditional with the crabs, Chablis was a better match with them (well their meat anyway), and better than with the other seafood, which tended to be sweeter in the flesh than the crabs. As for roe, we had a little try of anejo tequila, but I still go for Cognac XO for the really hard crab roe (the roe that is like the yolk of a hard boiled egg).
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