Sturgeon is not a fish one regularly meets in Hong Kong; in fact its pasteurized eggs (caviar) are probably more easily seen in purveyors of luxury food and luxury restaurants than the fish itself, especially if we are talking about the live ones. Yet just across the border in Shenzhen, one can find small specimens in the fish tanks of restaurants, not for decoration, but for consumption. These sturgeons which are farmed for the table are much smaller than the specimens raised for their roe. I have had sturgeon a number of times on the mainland, either steamed, or boned and stir fried with vegetables with the "bones" battered and fried and seasoned with garlic and chili to provide a second dish.
Sturgeon flesh is white and quite "full bodied" and "meaty", so although the likes of Chablis and Muscadet will not clash, especially with the fried "bones", it can take some other choices. I have not had it with light reds, but a Cru Beaujolais or a light Pinot Noir will surely not go amiss.
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