Although Canaiolo is one of the grapes used to
make Chianti (as well as being a minor grape in Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, it
is not often sported on labels, so it was a bit of a surprise to see the
following wine on sale in (of all places) a newly opened branch of a Japanese
convenience chain store. Probably native to Central Italy, but of greater
importance in Tuscany, Canaiolo owes part of its success there from its ability
to dry without rotting, lending itself to the governo technique that has been
developed and used in Tuscany since the 14th century to help complete
fermentation and stabilize the local wine. The ascendance of Sangiovese as well
as the problems of grafting onto American rootstock post phylloxera contributed
to Canaiolo's decline, until a recent resurgence in interest.
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