f you have been drinking Chablis for say 20 years or more,
you will notice that there has been a perceptible change in the way the wine
tasted: Chablis used to be more acidic, less fruity, with more or less
minerality, this last depending on producer, but now, everything is fruitier
(hinting even towards sweetness even) and less angular, sometimes even with
hints of wood. Improved methods, including better temperature control during
fermentation keeps the fruity notes better, and better bacterial control keeps
the unwanted elements away (including an excess of volatile acidity). Global
warming means higher sugars and lower acidity at harvest too. Somehow, I still
wonder about the globalization of tastes and whether certain winning styles
have been sought for commercial success with typicite and regional
characteristics sacrifised on the altar of profitability. I am a wine drinker
who likes his Chablis to taste like Chablis, leaning towards a certain austerity
and not wanting the voluptuousness of Puligny-Montrachet. I'll buy that when I
want to drink that, but give me Chablis when I buy Chablis!
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