Monday, 22 April 2013

Global warming or a change in style



f you have been drinking Chablis for say 20 years or more, you will notice that there has been a perceptible change in the way the wine tasted: Chablis used to be more acidic, less fruity, with more or less minerality, this last depending on producer, but now, everything is fruitier (hinting even towards sweetness even) and less angular, sometimes even with hints of wood. Improved methods, including better temperature control during fermentation keeps the fruity notes better, and better bacterial control keeps the unwanted elements away (including an excess of volatile acidity). Global warming means higher sugars and lower acidity at harvest too. Somehow, I still wonder about the globalization of tastes and whether certain winning styles have been sought for commercial success  with typicite and regional characteristics sacrifised on the altar of profitability. I am a wine drinker who likes his Chablis to taste like Chablis, leaning towards a certain austerity and not wanting the voluptuousness of Puligny-Montrachet. I'll buy that when I want to drink that, but give me Chablis when I buy Chablis!

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