Monday, 27 June 2011

Germany - home of grape crossings?


I took this picture at the duty free shop at Bali International Airport. These three offerings from Louis Guntrum are all Pradikatswein made from German grape crossings of the early 20th century. On the left we have a Huxelrebe Spatlese, a Bacchus Kabinett in the middle and an Ortega Auslese on the right. I just noticed that the Ortega is from a Doktor vineyard, in Dexheim rather than Bernkastel. It is not visible at the resolution of the blog, but that Doktor wine is also different in that it is a 2009 wine bearing an APNr with 09 as its last 2 digits. That means it was officially tested in 2009, quite a feat for an auslese of the 2009 vintage!

Back to the grapes! Huxelrebe was created by Dr Scheu in 1927 and is a high yeilding early ripening grape. It can reach Auslese levels easily and with controlled yields can high quality sweet wines with muscat-like aromas. Bacchus is a Sylvaner x Riesling cross interbred with Muller-Thurgau created in 1933. It is an early ripening grape with high must weights, but tends to low acidity. The wines have exuberant flavours if allowed to ripen fully, but become more like Sauvignon Blanc in style in England where the cooler climate results in lower yeilds with higher acidity. Ortega was created in 1948 from crossing Muller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe and is also used as a table grape. It ripens early with higher must weights and can give wines with peach and Muscat aromas. All three are also grown in England.

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