Wednesday, 13 April 2011

A Chateau that's not a Chateau



This is a bottle of vin jaune from Chateau-Chalon, an appelation in the Jura. Made from the Savignin grape, the barrels are not topped up during the mandatory minimum of 6 years and 3 months of aging. A layer of yeast forms on top (similar to the flor in fino sherry) and helps develop the charactersitc flavours of vin jaune. According to local tradition, only 62% of the original volume is left and so it is bottled in 62cl bottles called clavelins.

Chateau-Chalon is a village in the Jura as well as an AOC. Other AOCs producing Vin Jaune in the Jura include L'Etoile and Arbois. Although similar to fino sherry in its flavours, it is not a fortified wine. Apart from nutty notes, it can develop curry-like flavours as it ages due to the presence of sotolon. Best drunk at cellar temperature at least 10 years after bottling (over 16 years after vintage), the wine keeps for a very long time. It has been paired with chicken cooked in vin jaune as well as the local Comte cheese.

This bottle above was bought in Hong Kong and I haven't opened it yet. I have tasted a 2003 vin jaune from Arbois at the last wine fair and can tell you that the golden yellow wine had a acid slightly nutty nose reminiscent of f nice fino sherry, with a dry acid palate with notes of dried fruits and smoke extending to the finish with a slight nuttiness. This was the current vintage, so no curry notes could be expected.

PS. Even discounting Chateuneuf, we still have another chateau AC - Chateau-Grillet in north Rhone, famed for its Viognier.

No comments:

Post a Comment